JEDDAH, Saudi Arabia — In the historic centre of Jeddah, in the old heart of the city, there’s a football pitch. It isn’t much: an uneven, artificial turf surface and two undersized goals. There are floodlights, and white lines painted on the ground, but no seats for spectators. It’s surrounded by crumbling walls, half-abandoned buildings, and a few palm trees. This is football, like it has always been, everywhere. But…